SO, TIE . . .
What makes you think (the great) Michael Jackson
would have wanted to "baby-sit your kids"?
Now, ask yourself: Are they really YOUR kids?
"LET THAT SIMMER" . . .
REMEMBER . . . (As our Tiger would say)
"IT S A PROCESS"
Step #1 > Slap em' down . . .
Step #2 > Send em' home . . .
Step #3 > "IGNORE" their response.
BUILDING A STABLE BASE
THE DRIVER & WOODS FROM THE FAIRWAY . . .
My feet are spread wide to accomodate my big shoulder turn and faster upper-body movement during the swing. A narrower stance would encourage a sway; a wider stance would limit my weight shift.
ON EVERY SHOT: You need a combination of balance, stability and ease of movement. Those factors are largely determined by stance width - how far apart you position your feet at address. Stance width is especially important with your irons, as they are precision clubs that demand a rock-solid base with your lower body.
SHORT SHOTS: My swing with the short irons isn't super long, and I rarely swing with all my effort; therefore, I don't need a wide base. When I'm pitching or chipping, my stance is narrower still.
THE (5) IRON: As the club becomes shorter, my stance width becomes narrower. My stance is wide enough to allow me to keep my balance, but not so far apart that it restricts motion in my upper body. With each club, it is important to be consistent with my stance width on every shot. That is the only way to produce consistent results.
THREE (3) THINGS HAPPEN WHEN I CHOKE DOWN ON MY IRONS:
1. I hit the ball a bit straighter
2. I get a lower ball flight
3. The ball doesn't check up as quickly when it hits the green.
HOW TO HANDLE
Tall grass around the greens intimidates most golfers, and understandably so. For me its one of the hardest shots there is, though I've gotten much better at it. At the 2000 U. S. Open at Pebble Beach, I landed in the tall stuff a few times, but managed to save par almost every time.
I use my 60-degree wedge. The tall grass tends to close the clubface, and I need all the loft I can get.
I distribute 60 percent (60%) of my weight on my forward foot - the one closest to the green. That encourages a steep, knifelike angle of attack with the clubhead.
I hold the club more firmly than normal, especially with my left hand. The rough will try to twist the clubface closed.
I make a very upright backswing, cocking my wrists abruptly.
On the downswing, the force of the clubhead should be expended downward, to penetrate the grass. I don't let the clubhead approach the ball on a level angle; I'd be at the mercy of the rough.
I restrict my follow-through. In fact, if I hit down sharply, there won't be any follow-through.
TOP SECRET #1
KNOW YOU LIMITATIONS
I Aim for the Toe of the Club: One of my tricks for making the ball land softly is to contact the ball on the toe of my 60-degree sand wedge. I still get the same high trajectory, but striking the ball out on the toe tends to deaden the shot. I can make a fairly aggressive swing without fear of catching a "flyer" that sails over the green. I can always count on the ball stopping very close to where it lands.
The key to succeeding at the flop shot is judging when you can - and when you can't - pull it off. I don't even try to hit the flop unless my lie is at least decent. I want to have a bit of cushion underneath the ball for the sand wedge or 60-degree wedge to slide cleanly.
NO GO: Never try the flop from hardpan or other tight lie. If you hit behind the ball even a fraction, the clubhead will bounce into the ball and skull it over the green.
NO GO: Never try it when the ball is sitting down deeply in tall grass. The average player doesn't have the strength to plow through grass with sufficient force.
GO: Now we're talking ! A clean lie or even a fluffy one is fine, because you can slide the clubhead under the ball without much interference.
The shot is easier than it looks.
As you say . . "better than most"